Koh Lanta: Yes, first of all we were Koh Lantin'. In particular, we visited Kantiang Bay, a lovely beach which was almost totally deserted at this time of year. There were a few other tourists, all of whom were staying at the Kantiang Bay resort, a less-than-picturesque location which had the dubious honour of hosting some classic rock karaoke-with-a-live-band every night (audible from a long way away): "Hotel California"? "In The Name Of Love"?. We stayed there one night (got free transportation to the beach off them if we stayed with them) but soon moved to much swankier accommodation: a bungalow on the cliffs above one end of the beach, affording a wonderful view across the bay from our balcony (could still hear the karaoke at night, though). Plus, it being low season, we got it for less than a quarter of what they charge during high season (according to the resort chief, anyway).
our bungalow, as smugly pointed out by me
the view from the balcony
The down side of low season was that most things were shut: no snorkelling trips, no elephant tours (though we did see the elephants). And the reason for all of this closure was also apparent: it chucked it down with rain off and on for the whole time we were there. Still, it was strangely a very relaxing time, consisting mainly of sitting on our balcony reading and drinking beer, and watching the rain sheeting across the bay.
There was one thing that was still running in low season, and that was a cooking course at Lanta Thai Cookery School. Because of the few tourists, we got a whole afternoon's instruction for just the two of us (the class takes up to 15 but any other takers were kept away by the monsoon that erupted as we arrived at the place). We learnt how to make Pad Thai, Coconut Chicken Soup, and Thai Green Curry: coming soon to dinner parties hosted by us, no doubt. The best part was that we got to eat our own creations (well, and that they were actually delicious).
The monsoon
Katie is stunned by the delicious taste of her coconut chicken soup
Green curry to take away for dinner
So cautious thumbs up to Koh Lanta, even in rainy low season.
Koh Lipe: With no Public Enemy song to link to this time, we can get on with the show. Koh Lipe is supposedly the "next big thing" in Thai islands - it's the place that, in ten years or so, Katie and I will be able to say "well we were there on our honeymoon when it wasn't so over-developed and it was lovely back then" the way travel dullards love to do. Actually it's already pretty developed, with loads of shops and bars. But (this being low season) there were almost no tourists and (as a consequence) almost none of the shops and bars were open.
We got to Lipe by speedboat from the mainland, via a massive storm which drenched everyone on the boat and dampened all the stuff in my bag (the up side of which was that I had to unpack, hang up, and repack everything, and I've packed it much more efficiently meaning more space: this is heaven). We stayed at a resort on Pattaya beach, which is busier than either Sunrise or Sunset beach (on Sunset beach literally everything was closed for the season - we were there at sunset and it was eerily suggestive of some dystopian post-apocalyptic scenario what with us being the only people there). Pattaya beach is a beautiful location: (slightly naff) coral just off the beach, turquoise water, white sand, etc etc.
Alas by now the effect of all this is somewhat lessened on us: we've been spoiled rotten on beaches. Still, Lipe is pretty relaxed and I can definitely seeing it becoming the "next Koh Phi Phi" (or some such) - you can walk across the whole island from beach to beach in about 10 minutes, there are no cars, and there are plenty of offshore excursion possibilities. And it didn't rain anywhere near as much as it had on Lanta (though it was cloudy much of the time). The only down side was that the food wasn't up to much, with the only options being the restaurants of what few resorts were open, none of which had great food (or service, actually). Sadly the amusingly-titled "Porn Resort" was closed for the low season so I can't tell you about that. We stayed at the less suggestively entitled "Lipe Resort". Or "Lee Pae Resort". Or "Lee Pay" Resort. Or one of several other spellings they used on various signs.
It was an odd experience being on a mainly closed island with very little to do, and we left after a couple of days, bound for Malaysia (from where I write this). But that's another story: for now, I shall sign off by saying that Lipe also gets cautious thumbs up, but I expect it'll be completely different once it gets busier year-round. And Katie and I will be able to say we were there before it got massive.
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